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Moscow will host the Climbing European Championships. The best athletes will be selected for the 14 th time. European Championships 2020 live on the YouTube-channel of CFR (english commentary)
 A particular status of European Championships 2020The European Championships held in Russia will be particular in several ways. Firstly, the competition in Moscow will be the last 2020 Olympic qualifier for European climbers. Secondly, it is for the first time in history that the champions of Europe will be named according to the Olympic format in the Combined event! Thirdly, European Championships will be joined for the first time (since 2008). Thus, the winners in all disciplines will be selected in the same place. Recently the competitions have been traditionally divided into two independent starts: one place for bouldering, the other – for lead and speed. Towards the Olympic Games via the European ChampionshipsThe European Championships will be the third and the final Olympic 2020 qualifier. There is one Olympic voucher for men and one for women left. The vouchers will be delivered according to the results of the Combined event on the 27-28 th of November. However, the struggle for the vouchers will start from the first days of the competition: according to the results of the ascents at European Championships in single disciplines (speed, boulder and lead) twenty best “all-round” climbers will be selected and will be allowed to qualify in the Combined event. Please be reminded that the first Olympic 2020 qualifier was held in August 2019 in Hachioji. The second Olympic 2020 qualifier was held in Toulouse (November 28- December 1 st ,2019). As a result, 14 participants of the Olympic Games (men and women) were selected. The third stage of selection are the continental championships of Europe, Asia, America, Africa and Oceania. By the beginning of the competitions in Moscow we will have learnt the names of the champions of America. While the competitions will be going in Moscow, the African Championships will come to the end. The winners of the competitions in Moscow (men and women) will be the 17 th holders of Olympic authorizations. Postponement of the European ChampionshipsThe International Federation of Sport Climbing, together with the IFSC Continental Councils and in agreement with the National Federations and the Local Organising Committees of the competitions affected by the outbreak of the COVID-19 coronavirus, took some strategic decisions concerning the calendar of the upcoming months. Specifically, it has been decided to:
These decisions add up to the ones that were taken in the previous weeks:
Any further development will be communicated in due time. https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/news/319-update-on-ifsc-competitionsThe history of the European ChampionshipsThe competitions have been held since 1992. The first one was in Frankfurt. Now for the 14 th time in history the strongest athletes in “speed” and “lead” will be selected. Since 2002 “bouldering” has also been included in the European Championships. The best athletes in this discipline will be selected for the 10 th time. Champions in the Combined event will be named for the first time. Russia hosts the European Championships for the second time. In 2006 the competitions in “Speed” and «Lead” were held in Yekaterinburg. At that point the national team of Russia won 7 medals out of 12. Our athletes took all the steps on the podium in “speed”. European Champions from RussiaEvery competition brought medals to the national team of Russia. Our athletes got onto the podium 51 times. 9 Russians became European Champions. Two of them were standing on the highest step of the podium twice. Bouldering - Olga Bibik – 2004. Speed - Aleksandr Peshekhonov – 2004. - Anna Stenkovaya – 2004, 2006. - Evgueny Vaitsekhovsky – 2006, 2008. - Sergey Abdrakhmanov – 2010. - Anna Tsyganova – 2013. - Yulia Kaplina – 2017. - Vladislav Deulin – 2019. Lead - Dinara Fahritdinova – 2013. DisciplinesBouldering The name comes from the English word “boulder”. The participants are asked to climb on a set of short routes of the highest difficulty. In this discipline a detailed prior examination of a route is crucial. The one who will overcome the greatest number of the routes with minimal amount of attempts wins. In every round (qualification, semi-finals, finals) an athlete is given 4-5 routes. The time of the ascent is limited. The route is deemed completed if the athlete has held the “top” (usually the highest boulder or hold marked by a special label) by both hands. Modern routes also include a midway (so called “zone”). It is marked by a special sign. The achievement of these points also counts for an athlete. If climbers are tied (the same number of routes and attempts), the ranking is determined according to the number of “zones” and attempts spent on them. If climbers are still tied, the priority is given to the athlete who has left his opponent behind in a previous round of the competition. One of the features of bouldering is absence of belay devices. In case of failure climbers fall onto special boulder pads. Speed This is the most dynamic and understandable for spectators discipline in sport climbing. The climber who has completed a 15 meter high vertical route fastest – wins.. However, besides climbing speed, the concentration of attention is also needed at the start (in order to avoid a false start) and at the finish (in order to complete the ascent with a strong “hitting” of the special finishing button). The competition is held in two stages. In qualifications each participant has two attempts to show the best time of the ascent. Then comes the second stage with 16 fastest athletes selected, who continue to compete in pairs. The pairs are formed in the following way: 1-16; 2-15; 3-14 etc. Thus, on their way to the gold medal the athletes have to go through eight finals, quarter finals, semi finals and the final. Those athletes who have lost in the semi finals will compete for the third place. In its modern version the competition is held with automatic belay devices. In this discipline world records are registered. For men the current record holder is Reza Alipour Shenazandifard (Iran) – 5.48 sec. For women the current record holder is Aries Susanti Rahayu (Indonesia) – 6.995 sec. Lead In this discipline wins the athlete who moves farthest on the route which had been preset by a special team of routesetters. The time of the ascent is limited. In case when several athletes have reached the top of the route wins the one who has done it faster than the others. The final places of the participants who have not reached the top are distributed according to the number of the holds reached. Modern routes are up to 40 meters long. In lead climbing the emphasis is put on the appropriate lower belay. The climber has to clip quickdraws situated along the whole route by him/herself. Combined The result in the Combined Event is a multiplied score obtained by an athlete in a particular round in separate disciplines (speed, bouldering, lead). The lower the score, the higher the ranking. The competitions are carried out in 2 rounds: qualifications and finals. In each of them the strongest athletes are selected successively in “speed”, “bouldering”, “lead”. 20 best athletes according to the results of the qualifications of the European championships in bouldering, lead and speed are selected to the qualification of the Combined Event. 8 strongest male and 8 strongest female athletes will take part in the finals. VenueThe event will be held at Irina Viner-Usmanova Gymnastics Palace (Moscow, Luzhniki street 24, building 24).
A new mobile climbing wall (which later on will be used for Russian National team trainings), will be installed for the upcoming European Championships. Provisional program21st November (Saturday)
Speed
10:30 Women. Practice then qualification.
14:30 Men. Practice then qualification.
17:00 Press-conference.
18:00 Opening ceremony.
18:30 Finals.
22nd November (Sunday)
Boulder.
9:00 Women. Qualification.
16:00 Men. Qualification.
23rd November (Monday)
Boulder.
11:00 Semifinals. Women, men.
16:45 Finals. Women.
18:30 Finals. Men.
24th November (Tuesday)
Lead
11:00 Qualification. Women, men.
25th November (Wednesday)
Lead.
11:00 Semifinals. Women, men.
19:00 Finals. Women.
20:00 Finals. Men.
26th November (Thursday)
Rest day.
27th November (Friday)
Combined.
10:00 Speed qualification.
11:30 Boulder qualification.
18:00 Lead qualification.
28th November (Saturday)
Combined.
15:50 Speed Women Final.
16:30 Speed Men Final.
17:30 Boulder Women Final.
19:00 Boulder Men Final.
21:00 Lead Finals. Women then men.
For spectatorsPay tickets – Kassir.ruMedia accreditationWe will be pleased to see the journalists at the European Championships 2020 in Moscow. Accreditation details will be provided later. For more information and photos please contact the CFR spokesperson Andrey Reshetov, e-mail: pressa3@c-f-r.ru, tel.: +7-961-206-11-88 Information for partners, sponsors and advertisersEuropean Climbing Championships 2020 is a landmark event which can be used to promote your goods or services. For more information please contact e-mail: pr@c-f-r.ru, tel +7-916-624-1877, Dmitry Shushpanov. |
