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Interview with Percy Bishton – route-setter of the IFSC World Cup Final in Moscow

29 октября 2008

You clime around 20 years, aren’t you?

I started climbing when I was 12 years of age, so now I have been climbing for 24 years.

How many time do you spend training indoors and outdoors?

I don’t really do any training any more – I just go climbing outside or work setting routes in my climbing wall. This work is enough training for me. I work at least 20 hours a week setting routes and testing them, and this keeps me fit for climbing. When I’m not working I go out climbing on the famous gritstone areas near my home in the Peak District.

What is your favorite climbing area?

In Great Britain I love the gritstone areas of Northern England the best. Abroad, I would say Fontainebleau.

What is your best climbing result? Onsight, redpoint?

Best onsight for me is Font 7c bouldering, 7c+ routes and E6 traditional climbing (using hand placed protection – no bolts)

In Moscow you set the routes for bouldering competitions, have you ever set the routs for difficulty?

I started working in International competitions in 1993 setting difficulty World Cups in the UK. I have worked setting difficulty, bouldering and speed climbing for many international events including World Youth Championships, World Championships, European Championships, World Cups and international Masters’ competitions. Now I try and concentrate just on bouldering competitions because I find it too hard for me to have good level to set boulders and routes – the two disciplines require such different types of fitness its almost impossible to be good at doing both.


As for a route-setter, what is the main difference between setting routs for bouldering and difficulty? For you, what is easier/harder to set, why

Personally I find setting difficulty routes a pretty time consuming process and it can take a long time to create a beautiful route that is interesting for the climbers and the audience. Setting cool boulders is a quicker and a more creative process for me and I find it more interesting. It’s easier to really push the climbers to the limits of their strength and flexibility in bouldering and I find this challenge more appealing.

What helps you more in route setting – climbing on artificial climbing structures or on natural rocks? Does climbing structure or rock give you wider variety of moves that you use to create problems?

Climbing on rock is the best way to discover new ideas about route setting for me.

Do you prefer technical/powerful climbing?
Pinches/sloopers?
Verticals/overhangings?

I prefer technical climbing, but also enjoy setting very physical problems that can’t be solved with just power – I like to have a mental challenge and be required to find a solution to the problem.

What are your favourite competition climbers that you have set competitions for?

A hard question because there have been a lot, but I will try and name a few! Salavat Rhakmetov – a quiet guy, but amazing strength, tenacity and focus;
Sandrine Levet – super talented and determined, with an amazingly successful competition career;
Jerome Meyer – Flamboyant, super strong and great fun to watch compete
Also Fischuber, Calibani, Core, Stohr, Patissier, Legrand, Vickers – just too many great climbers to mention!

What is it in route setting that you stopped competing and begun being a route-setter? What feelings, emotions does it give to you?

I did most of my competitions in the early 1990’s and competed mostly in difficulty. I found the long periods in isolation and then the small amounts of time actually climbing too boring for me – I like to spend my time climbing, not in an isolation room. I have always been a creative person and route setting was the natural way for my climbing to go. It also means that I never have to worry about being bored – the total opposite in fact.

What do you think about children’s climbing? (Children start training as professional sportsmen from the early childhood, but what physical/mental changes in young body does it cause?)

I don’t know too much about children’s climbing, although I know that they should not be encouraged to train very hard when they are young as it can damage their developing bodies. I think that gentle encouragement to do activities that interest children is the best way – if they want to climb, then its great.

What is the greatest achievement in your life?

My greatest achievements – having an amazing wife and a 4 month old daughter, owning my own house and my setting up my climbing gym in Sheffield. So far…!

Have you ever been to Russia? Do you have any expectations about competitions, country? How do you see Russian people?

This is my first trip to Russia, although I have met many Russian people in competitions over the years, and many of my route-setting friends have worked here. I am really excited to have been invited to this amazing country, and am looking forward to exploring a little before I go home.

What are your plans for the future?

More climbing, maybe more children! Just to enjoy life to the full and see some more of the world.

Thank you for your answers! And have good and exciting days in Russia!


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